Moscow

We've just now found Internet access in what looks like a futuristic (very non-Russian) mall. It is three stories deep and zero stories high (ie: it is built into the ground).

Moscow seems to love to build underground and their metro system proves it. Like St. Petersburg's Metro it plunges to the center of the earth. It is a mamouth infrastructure of tunnels, rails, escalators and impossing Russian signs. The architecture in the Metro is nothing short of amazing with gilded, fluted pillars, tiled artwork covering ceilings, chandeliers, bronze reliefs and marble everywhere. No two stations are the same. I doubt we've actually been to the same station twice since the Metro here is emmence and there are at least half a dozen ways to get everywhere.

Moscow seems a bit cheerier than St. Pete in that we have seen people smile. Although the lady who mans the reception desk at the Travelers Homestay where we are staying is a dower as ever.

Red Square is everything that I imagined it would be. It is grand and beautiful. It is lined on one side by one wall of the Kremlin and at one end is the massive onion-domed St. Basil's cathedral one sees in all the photos of red square. The cathedral is very old and a walk inside took us through several small rooms and tight hallways. The paintings on the walls are worn but show a lot of detail.

But if you are walking around Red Square, travelers beware. Four travelers that we met relayed their account of being stopped by police. Three thousand rubles was demanded of each one ($100) - no reason given. When the travelers asked for names or information, they were threatened and told they would be taken to a closed room. Later we learned this is common and one tactic would be to just walk away and try to get lost in a crowd. They ended up getting the fine down to just $25, but it left a bad taste for Moscow with them.

On the opposite extreme is the Cathedral of Christ the Saviour. It was finished in 1997 and is stunning. Our mouths were open the entire time looking up in awe.

We will spend another day exploring the Kremlin and then are taking a train to the countryside to escape city life for awhile. We plan to visit some of the small villages that do the Russian lacquer box paintings.